A Beginners Guide to Capulanas
When I first arrived here in Mozambique I didn’t even know how to say capulana. I must have asked Heather at
least 10 times – “What are they called again?” and I just couldn’t figure out why on earth people had them all the
time. Just over a year later and I am a true capulana convert. I never go anywhere without one. Even on holidays to
“normal” places like Cape Town, I take at least five and usually use them all! So here’s a little guide for beginners.
Just in case you’re thinking (like I would have last year) “That’s nice of you Kath, but what on earth am I going to
do with this?” Hopefully you’ll see that as well as being authentically African, they’re also very useful.
First things first
When I first arrived here in Lichinga, I figured I should try and fit in so I headed to the
markets to get myself some capulanas. I figured it would be pretty straightforward but
ended up with some fairly ugly, poor quality, fraying bits of material that I think my
language helper was embarrassed by. Judging by that picture, I think even Sydney
knew they just weren’t right. After some not so subtle hints “You need to buy stronger
capulanas! You should get them hemmed!” I soon changed my ways.
Capulana shopping can be quite overwhelming for a newbie. There are so many to
choose from for a start. It’s confusing when you don’t understand the lengths that they
come in. Then when you do finally figure out that you only want one, not two – it can
be downright scary when the man who doesn’t speak the same language as you gets
out the big rusty knife / scissors and asks you to hold the other end as it cuts towards
you. Then to top it off – he runs away with your money!
So some good things to know are… if you see something you like, buy it. It’s hard to find again next time and it
might just not be there. One capulana is approximately 2m long. Often they have 2 hanging together (4m of
material), if you only want one, they’ll either cut it, or find one for you that is already cut. If you want two, it’s good
to let them know if you want it cut or not. I haven’t been cut yet – these guys are pretty handy with sharp
instruments so just close your eyes and look away, she’ll be right. He’s not stealing your money – he’s just off to
find someone who has some change. He will come back. I promise. At the moment, the better quality capulanas
are 170Mets (about $6), the thinner ones 100 Mets.